If you're not a fan of multiple LED's (I don't see why you wouldn't be), you can buy the ones with less LED's that have built in resistors. Don't forget to turn off the cold diagnostic for them also.
I did the same for license plate, bought the ones with lots of LEDs, and I have no error in dash. I've found out that over time, that "shock" is burning LED's diodes. I'll give you an example of what I bought in this link:Īlso, in order to extend the life of the LED bulb, turn off the cold diagnostics with VCDS, if you leave it on, every time you turn the car on it sends a short electricity shock to check them. That would trick the CANBUS module to think there is enough charge load on the circuit, therefore it will not trigger en error in dashboard. This is what I did, in order to avoid the light bulb error in the dashboard: I bought a bulb with a lot of LED's.
Most install them for the whiteish light that is output.Ĭlick to expand.Ok, I also have the reverse LEDs. The current draw from LED vs incandescent bulbs in an automotive application is so minimal it's never going to be noticed on an ammeter or a fuel gauge. We couldn't make it happen so he put incandescent bulbs in. I just helped a buddy try and eliminate a fault related to LED bulbs in the footwells of his new to him MkV Jetta. In some cases, the system will shut off the bulb. This is the need for the loading resistors, to draw enough current to keep the bulb out warning system from thinking the bulb is in fact out. Since so little current is used, the system believes the bulb to be out and trips the warning. LED lights are very efficient - they use very little electricity compared to their incandescent counterparts. If it doesn't see the proper draw, then it trips the bulb out warning. The system is always monitoring the bulb circuit for voltage and current draw. (I understand these pulses to be of higher voltage than operating voltage.) If the system does not see the proper voltage/current on the circuit when these pulses are sent thorugh, it immediately trips a bulb out warning. Cold diagnostics is just as it sounds - when the lighting system is first engaged (or "cold") the system sends a series of electrical pulses through to test every bulb in the circuit. In most cases, turning it off will only delay the ineviteble bulb out warning.
Some of these are very high-end, with touchscreen capabilities and additional equipment that can be used to make a more accurate diagnosis, test components on the car, and even control the vehicle’s onboard software to simulate different operating conditions.Disabling cold diagnostics has little to do with the bulb out warning.
A code reader can cost hundreds but a good scan tool might set you back thousands, depending on the software and tools included. In addition to the difference in functionality, there’s also a considerable difference in price.
Mechanics can also access more than just the ECU – the code scanner generally provides access to codes and problems in the ABS system, traction control and other supplemental systems. Scan Tool: A scan tool is generally manufactured for use in an automotive shop, and provides a robust set of tools for testing, diagnostics and more.
You can then choose to clear the code if you want. They basically connect to the OBD II connection, and tell you what the code is. There’s a lot of blurring of the lines between these two options, but here are the main differences:Ĭode Reader: A code reader is generally the cheaper of the two options, and also the most limited in terms of functionality. As per the documentation prompt within VCDS reported the customer speed limiter can be reset with a login code (login/coding II) Once reset, the customer speed limit shows 250 kph in channel 14 which may be the same Vmax (by law shown in channel 7). You’ll find two primary categories of devices out there – code readers and scan tools. However, there are many different devices that do similar things, and it helps to know the differences between them. This lets the mechanic access the trouble code stored in the computer and begin diagnosing the problem. In order to determine why your Check Engine Light is on, a mechanic will connect a handheld device to the OBD II connector under your dash (in a vehicle made in 1996 and onward).